A bicycle becomes electric at one point only: the moment the motor turns and the frame does not argue with it. Everything before that moment is fitment, wiring, and the patience to match a cassette to a dropout. Everything after it is range, and range is decided by cells, not by marketing.
This kit begins with a geared rear hub rated at 36 volts and 250 watts, wound for the cadence of a commuter rather than the ego of a spec sheet. It fits a standard disc-brake dropout with a cassette freehub, so the drivetrain you already trust stays exactly where it is. The controller sits inside the battery cradle's wiring harness rather than dangling beneath the down tube, which is the difference between a conversion that survives a winter and one that collects road salt in its connectors.
The battery is where the kit earns or loses its reputation. Grade A 18650 cells are sorted for internal resistance before they are spot-welded into 10s configurations, then sealed into Hailong hard cases that lock to the frame with a key. A 13Ah pack carries roughly fifty cells, a 15.6Ah pack sixty, and the rear-rack 22.5Ah pack eighty, with 2A and 4A chargers matched to each so a full charge does not cook the outermost parallel group. Capacity chosen honestly is what turns a twenty-kilometre commute into a forty-kilometre one.
The sensor is a twelve-magnet pedal-assist disc, and the throttle is a half-twist on the left. Neither is an afterthought. Assist engages after roughly a quarter turn of the crank, so the motor reads your intention instead of guessing at it, and the cut-off on the brake levers is immediate rather than coasting.
Fit is a weekend. Range is the next three years.
What Makes It Different
✦Geared 36V 250W rear hub motor, wound for commuting cadence and legal in most European markets.
✦Disc-brake compatible cassette freehub, so the existing drivetrain and gear range stay intact.
✦Grade A 18650 cells sorted by internal resistance before welding, not binned by voltage alone.
✦Hailong hard-case packs in 13Ah, 15.6Ah and 22.5Ah, with a rear-rack option for cargo builds.
✦Matched chargers (2A for 13Ah, 4A for larger packs) to keep cell groups balanced over years.
✦Twelve-magnet pedal-assist sensor with immediate brake cut-off on both levers.
Technical Specifications
Motor typeGeared brushless rear hub, 36V / 250W nominal
FitmentStandard rear dropout with disc brake mount and cassette freehub
Cell specificationGrade A 18650, 2600mAh, sorted before assembly
Configuration10s5p / 10s6p / 10s8p depending on pack
Charger2A for 13Ah, 4A for 15.6Ah and 22.5Ah packs
Assist sensor12-magnet PAS disc, left-side fitment
ThrottleHalf-twist left-hand throttle with battery gauge
Brake inputCut-off switches on both levers
DisplayHandlebar-mounted LCD with assist levels and pack voltage
Where It Earns Its Place
The honest use case is a commuter that has to work on a Monday in February. A rider with a nine-kilometre run each way wants the 13Ah pack, because weight on a rear rack is weight you feel at every stop. A rider carrying tools or a child seat wants the 22.5Ah rack pack, which moves mass low and central instead of high on the seat tube. A workshop doing conversions for customers wants the 15.6Ah as the default, because it covers the widest spread of expectations without a second conversation about range. Whichever pack is chosen, the motor is the same quiet geared hub, which is the whole reason a conversion feels like a purpose-built bike rather than a science project bolted to a donor frame.
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Sourced directly from vetted manufacturing partners, inspected before dispatch, and priced without distributor layers. If the item arrives outside specification, we replace it or refund it. Every listing on this store is curated by a human buyer, not bulk-imported and abandoned.
Questions Buyers Actually Ask
Q: Will this fit my bike?
It suits a standard rear dropout with a disc-brake mount and a cassette freehub. Measure your dropout width and count your sprockets before ordering, because a freewheel hub cannot take a cassette kit.
Q: How far will one charge go?
On flat ground with moderate assist, a 13Ah pack covers roughly 35 to 45 kilometres, a 15.6Ah pack 45 to 60, and the 22.5Ah rack pack 65 to 85. Headwinds, hills, tyre pressure and rider weight move those numbers more than the display does.
Q: Is 250 watts enough?
It is enough for commuting and legal in the markets that enforce a 250W ceiling. What riders actually feel is torque at low cadence, and a geared hub delivers that where a direct-drive motor does not.
Q: How long does assembly take?
A competent home mechanic needs three to five hours: wheel swap, PAS and throttle routing, battery cradle mounting, and cable dressing. A shop with a stand does it in two.
Q: Can I keep my hydraulic brakes?
Yes, provided the cut-off is wired to a sensor that reads lever movement rather than cable pull. Some hydraulic levers need an inline sensor, which is a small extra part, not a new brake system.
Q: What about spare cells later?
The pack is serviceable by any battery workshop that handles 18650 builds, and the BMS is a standard 10s board. Buying a matched replacement pack is usually cheaper than a rebuild.
Bought the first for my wife's bike and the second for mine. Both used the same fixings and both run through their gears normally, which was the point of buying a cassette version instead of a freewheel one.
Y
Yuki O.
Range matches what they claim
I get 58 km on the 15.6Ah pack on a flattish route, which is close to the stated figure. Assist comes in after a quarter turn of the crank so it feels natural rather than snatchy. Only note is that the charger is a 4A brick and takes a while on a full pack.
B
Bram H.
Motor is quiet, wiring was the real surprise
Fitted to a hybrid frame with a cassette hub and it went on without a fight. The controller harness is already dressed into the battery cradle, so there is no bundle of spade connectors hanging under the down tube. Thirteen amp pack gives me about 40 km on my commute with moderate assist.
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